Mumbai-based Studio Renn gives an elevated interpretation of fine jewellery, which is now on display in New York

Mumbai-based jewellers Studio Renn will be showcasing their designs at Bergdorf Goodman, New York’s iconic luxury department store this month. Founded by husband-wife duo Rahul and Roshni Jhaveri in 2018, their abstract articulation and avant-garde aesthetic of fine jewellery has been pushing the envelope and breaking the mould of a diamond design house. And their efforts have not gone unnoticed–last month they won the Wallpaper Design Award for ‘Best Hidden Gem’ and in 2021 their acid-treated concrete ‘Strangler’ ring was recognised in the innovation category of Couture Las Vegas. 

This month the studio is presenting over 40 pieces in the Fifth Avenue salon—a feat only a handful of elite Indian jewellers have been privy to (and where Sabyasachi also showed last Fall). “We are very grateful to have the opportunity to showcase our work at Bergdorf Goodman. It is only with their support that young studios like us acquire an engaging platform to have our voices heard,” explains Roshni Jhaveri, co-founder and business development head. 

Headlining pieces from the ‘Cacti’ series will be displayed in New York with their characteristic serrated edges (switching between blackened and high gloss gold) and unexpected diamond placements. Also on view will be the ‘Seed-Leaf’ line that toys with the notion of fertility and creation (‘Renn’ also happens to be Latin for rebirth), translating into metal through voluminous organic forms that combine gem-encrusted surfaces with reflective gold. Vogue chats exclusively with co-founder and creative director Rahul Jhaveri on the eve of the show.

Tell us about the pièce de résistance from the collection…

RJ: It’s the ‘Seed-Leaf Earrings’ made in 18k rose gold and diamonds. The scale, volume and
reflections of the gold lattice on the mirrored surface are spot on. It is meant to be a seed and a
leaf at the same time, a simple form that signifies fertility and creation.

What is the most technically challenging piece that you have created for the show?

RJ: The ‘Seed-Leaf’ and ‘Cacti Karela’ pieces are the most challenging where the focal point of
the work is the diamond reflections on high gloss gold. It is challenging to get the angles just
right and extremely challenging to get mirror-polish surface on gold. It takes multiple tries to get
each of these works right.

Which series embodies the spirit of New York most for you?

RJ: The matte black ‘Cacti’ pieces are fierce, edgy and forward-thinking. The gold has been
subverted with a matte black finish and the diamonds are set seemingly precariously in the
ridges.

VARUN SHRINGI

You’ve often said your jewels are ‘beautifully imperfect’—how does this contradiction play
a role in your design process?

RJ: Our work and creative process is very fluid. We embrace ideas of atrophy, rot, and serendipitous creation or abstraction–giving up control and letting the works create themselves. In this process we see results that we never expected or could have designed consciously and defy our false sense/idea of perfection.

VARUN SHRINGI

VARUN SHRINGI

Describe Studio Renn in three words:

RJ: Contemporary, innovative, experimental.

Also read:

This show will change the way you see Indian jewellery

Sabyasachi Mukherjee goes for round two at Bergdorf Goodman

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