Fall 2023 marked Matthew M. Williams’ best Givenchy collection yet — not a home run, but a very approachable version of tough chic, with all the sharp edges softened, right down to the plush pumps.
Recall that the American designer’s first volley at the brand was hardware, with hefty padlocks replacing buttons on sleek, minimalist jackets, and sometimes weighing down handbags. Baseball caps came in leather with little devil horns.
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Yet here were lustrous cashmeres and soigné tuxedo satins carved into coats with bathrobe sleeves, prominent but sloping shoulders, gently defined waists, and dramatic box pleats fanning out behind. There were flowing silks for blouses with long ties drifting to the floor, or sheer dresses in near fluorescent colors.
“Everything has an ease to it. You know, it still has a strong shoulder and silhouette, but you can just throw it on,” he explained backstage. “There’s a